I've alter the sprint selector, checked out the tccm module it clicks but will not appear out of lo four wheel travel, I disconnected the vaccume module in the center of the fireplace wall.
obtained warmth going in garage, will start ripping my motor vehicle apart! Ohh I forgot we are getting a storm of 12 inches, better begin shovelin’ best regards Doug
The one thing I can propose, which can be of no value for you, should be to attempt to swap out the TCCM. You can try a used one with the scrap yard, however, you never definitely know what you’re getting there (you could be in worse shape). There are actually providers that rebuild them (the last a single I listened to my buddy on the garage buy was like $a hundred and fifty, his cost, for your rebuilt device), or, with any luck ,, your mechanic will likely have a great just one around which you can use to find out if that is the problem (not surprisingly, Using the latter strategy, you must have a fantastic connection with all your mechanic!
So, I have every little thing Doing the job… time for the recent glue. I place a dab of glue down the highest of pins #1 and #6 to carry them in position, Permit it established and tried to pull them out.
). I've a definite “vacuum†sound coming from underneath the dash, near the heater Main. At lower speeds it “whistles†(like a leaking vacuum would audio like), and goes absent at larger speeds.
Should you look at the schematics, you'll be able to begin to see the motor is simply “managed†through the TCCM through signal wires. I guess it’s achievable that if on the list of motor wires ended up to become shorted it may well cause damage to the TCCM — do I do think this is the case?
I ment to say, I'd my transmission rebuilt 2 months ago and also the 4wd worked then. I set my Blazer on jack stands and started tracing the hissing audio (air leaking?). I’ve discoverd the hissing sounds is coming with the transfer case.
If it was the actuator, I’d Assume the front finish would pull on the remaining… the actuator controls the ideal front axle only (AFAIK). The still left is always engaged with the front diff.
What I’d do is go out and start tests the TCCM and connections (When you've got that capability). I undergo a substantial amount of it Within this put up.
I've Chevy 2001 Blazer. The issue I had is I'm able to’t turn on the 4Hi. So I went to dealership. The repair service costed me $900 to replace the TCCM.
Sadly, your concerns are rather obscure and sound just like every single other challenge, as explained over.
I in fact sat right down to perform a little work on the website yesterday, in addition to updating my backup generate — that’s when the issues started out. Anyway, prior to I transform this article right into a rant… I have the schematics sitting correct in front of me, able to be scanned once I am able to get this equipment restored.
If it does not move, or only moves partly, you may have either a leaking vacuum line, your Homepage vacuum switch is shot (see pic in a very write-up above) or your diaphram is leaking. Utilizing a pair of ViseGrips will allow you to take a look at the front, proper hub, but I wouldn’t propose leaving it like that — for one particular, the area underneath the battery is amazingly little — I couldn’t receive the ViseGrips on and place the battery back again set up (which I wouldn’t want to do in any case… just testing). Other than, the ViseGrips are likely to tear up that cable and now you have a cable to interchange as well.
Raymond Dunne claims: January 7, 2008 at 10:27 am Effectively after alot of your time on my 2001 Jimmy 4wd program I am even now stumped. Started having a clicking sound from front close so I checked vacuum actuator and it’s performing it task now that I loosened up the cable. Truck will never go into 2hi or 4lo so I pulled the Handle module and checked wiring. Substantial orange wire on electricity connector was coated in corrosion and 1 wire on 32 pin connector was corroded.